|
Sensor Position:
I chose to put the sensor on the mid pipe of the forward bank (this is the pipe connecting the header to the cat pipes, if you have them, and runs directly under the oil pan). I'm not planning on running a dual channel O2 controller-- I'll just monitor one bank and trim everything based on it.
The new sensor is about 5-6 inches farther down stream than the OEM O2 sensor for the forward cyl bank. The sensor manufactures recommend mounting the wideband O2 sensor about 30-36 inches after the exhaust port for turbo charged applications or prolonged high rpm usage (ie road racing). This extra distance keeps the sensor from overheating.
You will want atleast 10 degrees of up angle (wire/power side higher than sensor/bung side) on the sensor when it is mounted to keep fuel and/or water condensation from accumulating on the sensor tip inside the exhaust. This will cause a dramatic temperature shock to the sensor and can result in the ceramic section of the sensor cracking.
Note: I pulled the OEM mid pipe off and had Blaine Fabrication weld the bung onto it, and do a little modification since the OEM mid pipe is dual-walled and I didn't want any trapped air messing up the sensor readings. If you need race car building/fabrication type work done you should definitely give Alan Blaine a call. His shop is in Sunnyvale and is open really late. Go to www.blainefabrication.com for more info.
Sensor harness routing:
There is a large hole in the firewall, rite behind the charcoal canister. If you make a small hole in the rubber grommet, you can pass the sensor/controller cable through into the cabin. You will need to remove the interior panels behind the driver seat, and remove the bolts for the TCS control unit which blocks access to the hole from inside the cabin. You don't need to unplug anything, just remove the 4 bolts holding the TCS control unit to the firewall, and move it to the left (towards the passenger side) and this will give you enough room.
Power supply for sensor/controller/gauge:
The installation instructions for my brand/model of sensor/controller/gauge recommended the use of a 10A fuse between the 12v power source and the gauge/controller unit. I picked up a simple inline fuse at Kragen and a couple 10A fuses. I also stopped by RadioShack and picked up a couple connectors which I would use instead of splicing/soldering into anything in the dash. The fuse panel/box next to the drivers left foot contains 4 'Optional Connections' which provide 12v power under various circumstances. I chose to use the 'ACC' connection which supplies power whenever the ignition is turned to ACC (first click) or beyond. This ACC connection is circled in red in the image of the fuse panel below.
Verify power to the gauge and enjoy:
| 
